Bismillah: Language and Culture in a Moroccan Caf矇
Though not a conventional blog post, I nevertheless wanted to share my final project for my intensive Darija course. Despite having written it in my first week in Morocco, the observations on culture and language still ring true to my experiences after five months in the country. I originally wrote the following poem in English while sitting in a Moroccan caf矇, later translating the work into a combination of Modern Standard Arabic (MSA) and Darija, Moroccos regional Arabic dialect. I memorized and recited the work for the Intensive Darija final presentation. The subject matter was in response to the projects prompt: Discuss, in Darija, your first impressions, experiences, or thoughts on an aspect of Moroccan culture. In the poem, the caf矇 culture, with heavy French influences, is obvious. Less evident to non-Arabic readers, though, is the mixture of MSA, Darija, and English loanwords, meant to evoke the complexity and humor of the Moroccan linguistic landscape.
堥堻 塈
塈堻堜 堹塈 塈1
塈堧 奡 塈
塈堧 奡 堧 堥塈媯堜
堭
堥 媢 塈堿塈堥
堬 塈塈堻 堨
堥堬堭堥堜
堶堭 堻塈
塈堹 塈堿塈堥
塈堹 塈堻堜
媯媢堥 堛堬
塈塈堛 塈媞堭堥堜
媯堛 塈堿堭塈 堹塈堭塈堻
2"媯 媯"媔堶
"塈 塈"
塈 堻塈堮堜
堨堹 奡堭堥 塈塈
塈塈
堻堛 堥堶塈 ""3
媢堭 塈
奡 ""
奡堭堥
塈堶堭 塈堻塈堜
堛媟媢 堶堹塈塈
堧塈 堹堹
堥塈媞堜 塈堻堹奡堜4
堥塈 堛
堥塈 堶堭塈堛
堜
塈堜 塈堜5
堿堿 堥 堮塈
塈媢 堹塈 塈堻
塈媢 堹塈 堛
堧塈 塈堛堮堛
堨堹 奡堭堥 堥奡堜
堛堻 塈堿塈堥
堶堛 塈堻堜
堭堜 堛塈堜
堥堻 塈... 堥堻 塈
6塈堶堹 塈... 塈堶堹 塈
Notes:
[1] Here, I translate Bismillah, a phrase in classical Arabic meaning, into Darija, though no Moroccan would ever use the Darija translation.
[2] Nus nus directly translates to Half-half (transliterated from English in the next line of the poem), and is a common drink in Moroccan cafes, mixing half coffee and half milk, hence the drinks name.
[3] The specific pronunciation of water (something close to muh) in Darija always makes me laugh, as my requests for water, in my mind, always sound like a supreme indifference toward hydration.
[4] Here, I refer to Darija as a sandwhichy language, given Moroccans frequent observation that their dialect lacks much of Modern Standard Arabics harakat, or short vowels, due to the influences of local Tamazight dialects. The effect sounds as though Moroccans are eating the words, always a funny piece of imagery.
[5] In this line, I show how the Modern Standard Arabic term for caf矇 is replaced by the word for coffee, like in French, which creates a frequent source of ambiguity for outsiders learning the dialect for the first time.
[6] Bismillah, "In the name of God," can be used to precede most any action, invoking God's name to bless that action. Similiarly, alhamdulillah, "Praise be to God," often marks an end to a meal, as well as a response to "How are you?" Given my limited Darija abilities when I wrote the poem, the two phrases were easiest to discern from the conversations at the caf矇.
English Translation:
Bismillah
In the name of God
The first thing here
Maybe the first thing anywhere
I think
As I search for the answer
I lift the cup to my mouth
And immediately burn my tongue
Maybe this is the answer
Maybe this is the name
Difficult to discern
Through the foreign words
And scraping of chairs
Nus nus, I chuckle,
Half half
But all heat
So I drink the water
M喝堯
A name like meh
But I am not indifferent
And as I drink,
The consonants cut around me
And I am exhausted
Of the sandwiched language
All pauses consumed
Caf矇 is coffee
And the two blend together
Simultaneously draining
The bottom of my cup
The bottom of my presence
But that makes me the dregs
So I sip more slowly
And wait for the answer
And also the name
One more time
Bismillah bismillah
Alhamdulillah alhamdulillah
Author: Charlie Johnson
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